NOTravelling to a Nordic country in November means your low-light photography skills need to be on point. Shooting at night isn't my specialty, but with only a 24-hour layover in a completely new city (and country) to me, I wasn't about to miss my chance to take a few photo walks.
I had arrived at Gardermoen around midday, fresh from a quick Swiss flight from Zürich, and stale from a longer one from Montréal. After a critically important nap, I bundled up to discover what there was to see.
The architecture is spectacular, as I had expected. It was 18:30 and already pitch black, but it was a Saturday night, so local couples and groups of teenagers were milling about, all around and on top of the stunning Opera House. There is ample lighting integrated into the building but no lamp posts, so despite the groups of people around it was dead silent, and seemed like we were all intruding on the building's privacy.
I grabbed a bite to eat in Aker Brygge, and given the smooth glass facades, integrated benches and boats tucked in every which way, it's easy to understand why the city is reputed to be so expensive. It reminded me a lot of my native Seattle, along with the late-season humid cold that pierces your bones in a way that makes even Montréal feel balmy.
From Akershus Fortress I walked past bars and typical Saturday night activities, people bundled up to their chins. I also weaved around the royal palace and parliament to get in as many sights as I could, though they weren't particularly photogenic this late at night.
Being a big fan of mulled wine, I was overjoyed to stumble onto the very first night of the local Christmas market, which honestly made the layover worth it on its own. Something about observing families starting to get into the festive spirit made me feel like even more of an outsider here.
I found Norwegians to be good humoured and kind, warm in their own way. After returning to the hotel bar for a nightcap, the bartender encouraged me to try Norway's version of akvavit, which is enjoyed side-by-side with a light beer. I had to Google it afterwards to be sure she wasn't making a joke at my expense, because it was honestly terrible.
Sunday morning in Bjørvika was pretty dead, and the daylight brought a very Norwegian-looking sky. In need of coffee, I grabbed a cappuccino and what was quite possibly the best, most well-balanced donut I've ever had.
After a quick scamper up Ekeberg to see the famous view that inspired Edvard Munch's "The Scream", it was time to head to the airport.
The flight from Oslo was uneventful, and probably about two-thirds empty, but the excitement was truly building at this point. Viking music was playing in my head when I saw the feet of Tindhólmur emerge from under the clouds. In this part of the world, mountains don't always show up peak-first...
